Garam masala means "warming spice mix" in Hindi. There is no single recipe: most North Indian blends are built on cumin, coriander seed, black pepper, green and black cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and bay, sometimes with mace, nutmeg or fennel. It tastes warm, sweet-spiced and slightly peppery, with almost no chili heat. Unlike curry powder, it is usually added at the end of cooking to perfume the dish rather than fried at the start. You will see it in butter chicken, chana masala, dal, biryani, keema and lamb curries.

How to buy

Every US and UK supermarket sells small jars in the spice aisle (McCormick, Simply Organic, Schwartz, Tesco). Better value and fresher blends come from Indian grocers: MDH, Everest and Shan boxes cost a few dollars for 100 g. Check the label; a good blend lists eight or more spices with cardamom, cinnamon and cloves near the top, and no salt, flour or chili as the first ingredient. Whole-spice garam masala kits let you toast and grind your own, which is worth it if you cook Indian food weekly.

How to store

Keep the jar sealed in a dark cupboard away from the stove. Ground garam masala is at its best for 3 to 4 months and acceptable for about a year; after that the cardamom and cinnamon fade first and only the pepper remains. Whole spices keep for two years, so grind small batches. Never shake the jar over a steaming pot, because moisture cakes the powder. If it smells dusty rather than sweet and peppery, replace it.

Substitutes

  • Make your own, 1:1: 1 tbsp ground cumin, 1 tbsp ground coriander, 1 tsp black pepper, 1 tsp ground cardamom, 1/2 tsp cinnamon, 1/2 tsp ground cloves, 1/4 tsp nutmeg. Slightly less complex, but the balance is right.
  • Cumin plus coriander plus a pinch each of cinnamon and cloves, 1:1. You lose the cardamom lift; good enough for dal and rice.
  • Mild curry powder, 3/4 the amount. Adds turmeric color and a savory edge, and the flavor turns more Anglo-Indian than North Indian.

How to use

Add most of it in the last 2 to 5 minutes of cooking, or stir it into the finished dish and cover for a minute; long simmering or frying makes it bitter and dull. Use 1 to 2 tsp for a curry serving four, and do not substitute it for the whole spices or the turmeric and cumin that go in at the start. A pinch over dal, raita or roasted vegetables just before serving adds aroma. If you make your own, toast the whole spices in a dry pan until fragrant, cool completely, then grind.

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