Pumpkin Risotto with Crispy Sage Brown Butter (No Cream)

Pumpkin and sage are the classic autumn pairing on tables across northern Italy. In this risotto, half the pumpkin is roasted and puréed, then slowly cooked into the rice until it's velvety; the other half is kept in dice for texture. It all gets finished with sage leaves fried in butter until crisp, and the aroma fills the whole kitchen in an instant. There's no heavy cream here: the starch released by the rice and a handful of Parmesan are all it takes for a silky texture.

Ingredients

• 320 g (1 2/3 cups) risotto rice (Arborio or Carnaroli)
• 600 g (1 1/3 lb) pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 1.5 cm (1/2-inch) dice
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 60 g (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, divided
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 120 ml (1/2 cup) dry white wine
• 1.2 liters (5 cups) vegetable or chicken stock, kept at a gentle simmer
• 60 g (2/3 cup) grated Parmesan, plus a little extra to serve
• 12 fresh sage leaves
• Pinch of ground nutmeg
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Toss the diced pumpkin with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and a little salt and pepper, spread it out on a baking sheet, and roast for 20 to 25 minutes, until the edges are lightly caramelized and the inside is soft. Mash half of the pumpkin with a fork into a purée and keep the other half whole.
2. Heat the stock in a small saucepan until it just simmers, then keep it warm over the lowest heat. The stock must stay hot for the entire risotto.
3. In a wide, deep pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and 30 g (2 tablespoons) of the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, until soft and translucent, then add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute.
4. Add the rice and stir for 2 minutes, until every grain is coated in fat and the edges turn slightly translucent.
5. Pour in the white wine and stir constantly until it has almost completely been absorbed and the smell of alcohol has cooked off.
6. Add a ladleful of hot stock (about 150 ml / 2/3 cup) and keep stirring over medium-low heat. Once it is nearly absorbed, add the next ladleful. Continue this way for about 18 minutes, until the rice is tender on the outside with a slight bite in the center.
7. At about the 12-minute mark, stir the pumpkin purée into the risotto so the rice takes on a beautiful orange color, and keep adding stock as before.
8. While the risotto cooks, make the sage butter: melt the remaining 30 g (2 tablespoons) butter in a small skillet over medium heat until it foams. Add the sage leaves and fry for 1 to 2 minutes, until the leaves are crisp and the butter is lightly browned, then remove from the heat immediately.
9. When the risotto is done, turn off the heat and stir in the Parmesan, the reserved pumpkin dice, and the nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and let it rest for 2 minutes for an even silkier texture.
10. Divide among warmed plates, drizzle with the sage brown butter, top with the crispy sage leaves, and finish with a little extra Parmesan.

Tips

• The keys to risotto are hot stock, added a ladle at a time, with constant stirring. That's what coaxes the starch out of the rice for a naturally creamy texture.
• A perfect risotto should flow slowly across the plate, which Italians call "all'onda" (like a wave). If it looks too dry, stir in one more ladle of stock before turning off the heat.
• No white wine? Use the same amount of stock plus 1 teaspoon of lemon juice instead.
• Risotto is best eaten fresh. Roll leftovers into balls, coat in breadcrumbs, and deep-fry for classic Italian arancini.